The function of your water machine water line is to load the washing machine with the water that is the right temperature. Your washing machine has two water lines; one for cold water and the other for hot water. They are connected to an inlet valve that supplies water into a single hose. Before the hose discharges water into the tub, water first passes through a device that precludes wash water from going back into the washing machine water line. This anti-siphon device has a large aperture that lets air in.
There are several fixes that a homeowner can do themselves.
If there is no water entering the wash tub you should check the water line hoses for crooks or bends. Also check the filter screen. There is a filter screen at the tip of the water line hoses and the inlet valve to trap rubbish and prevent the debris from harming the washer. If the filter screens are clogged then the water pressure will be low or water will not flow or if it is flowing it could be the wrong water temperature. Also check the water inlet valve, timer control, water temperature switch and water level switch.
If the filter screens are now clog- free but the water still does not enter the wash tub, the next thing you need to check is the inlet valve. What you have to check are the terminals and the connectors. Check them for corrosion. If they are rusted they should either be cleaned or if they’re totally corroded, replaced.
If the inlet valve is good, but water seeps through it even when the washing machine is off, then it could be that the valve is the problem. Waste and other debris may be stopping the valve from shutting or the valve could be faulty. Clean the valve, but if it can no longer be cleaned then replace it.
If none of these solutions work, then it is time to call a plumber (864) 517-1251.
A leaky toilet is not only annoying; it is also a very wasteful issue. It is a very common problem that most of us experience at one time or the other. You have a leaky toilet, also sometimes referred to as a running toilet, when the water continues to drip into the bowl and as the water level in the tank falls the ballcock refills it. You will hear the hissing of water as it passes along the pipes, a very irritating and bothersome sound because you know you are wasting water.
A toilet has only two main parts, a fill valve that allows water to fill the tank after it is flushed and the flush valve which allows the water to flood the bowl when you flush it. When a toilet runs or leaks either continuously or sporadically, the reason could be a faulty flush valve or fill valve.
Ways to fix a leaky toilet
To find out which valve is giving you trouble you need to examine the overflow tube. When water spills over into the tube, your fill valve is the culprit. When the water level is lower than the top of the tube, it is your flush valve that is leaking, the reason why water drips into the bowl. The constant and slow trickling of water into the bowl is the reason why the fill valve doesn’t close totally.
Adjusting the float - If your fill valve has a floating ball connected to the rod, slowly raise the rod and take note if the water stops. You can repair your leaky toilet by fine-tuning the float. This is easily done if your fill valve has a has a float adjustment screw. If there is none, lightly bend down the float arm to put added pressure on the fill valve. To find out if it works, flush down the toilet.
Flushing the valve - A flush valve may not completely close because of hard water, tiny fragments of debris from a broken water line or old pipes. Flush out and clear this debris by sluicing the valve with water.
Replacing the washer - Replace a cracked or worn-out washer by removing the worn washer from the cap using a small screw driver. Press down the new washer in place.
Replacing the fill valve - If the fill valve is beyond repair, then you need to replace it. Shut off the water supply from the shut –off valve before you proceed with replacing the fill valve and drain the remaining water on the tank by flushing the toilet and holding open the flush valve. Make sure that the interior of the tank is completely dry by sponging out any remaining water or moisture
If the cause of your leaky toilet is coming from the flush valve or the tank bolts, you need to detach the bowl from the tank to replace the rubber washer, the tank bolts and the gaskets of the flush valve.
There is not really a convenient time to deal with a stopped up toilet, but often toilets seem to stop up at the most inconvenient times. When you are having a dinner party or an overnight guest is staying in your home, clogged toilets can be a nightmare. Fortunately most blockages are minor and can be handled quickly if you have the right tools on hand.
The first tool to try is the old reliable toilet plunger that can be placed over the throat of the bowl and pushed down gently to create suction action in the toilet’s drain chamber. Doing this several times is often enough to unclog toilets where minor blockages due to paper products is the problem. If you try plunging a half dozen times and see no results, it’s time to move on to the next tool in your closet: the handheld auger.
If you have small children in the household who sometimes drop toys in toilets or even pets that may think the inside of a toilet is a great place to hide bones, a handheld auger can be a great addition to your home tool collection. Many times a small item can get lodged in a toilet’s drain lines and cause paper and waste to collect so that the resulting blockage can’t be cleared with a plunger. A handheld auger excels at unclogging toilets with these sorts of jams and they are fairly inexpensive.
The end of the auger has a 90 degree bend that allows it to be placed into the toilet bowl throat and you simply crank the auger so that the snake moves through the drainage chambers. When the snake has reached its maximum length (usually about 4 feet) pull it back out and try flushing the toilet. Be careful you don’t scratch the inside of the bowl while cranking the auger or pulling it back out. If the blockage still isn’t cleared, you now have two choices: clear your schedule for the next several hours for a fairly large project or call a plumbing contractor.
Pulling the toilet up and using a large plumbing snake or power auger to clear the blockage in the main line isn’t the most pleasant job in the world which is one of the reasons why plumbers stay so busy. Plumbing snakes and power augers are available at most tool rentals and don’t forget to purchase a new wax seal that will be needed for the toilet before it is sat back into place.
Unfortunately you may not realize you have a problem with your sewer line until your tub or sink doesn’t drain or a toilet overflows onto the bathroom floor. You may be able to predict a sewer line issue if your sink or tub drains seems slow or you hear a gurgling sound when the water is running. This might indicate a partial blockage that hasn’t yet reached the critical stage.
Handheld augers are handy for clearing a drain pipe near a sink trap or adjacent to a toilet without a lot of trouble – in many cases you don’t even have to pull the toilet. However, for a big job where the blockage is further down the sewer line, the best tools are a plumbing snake or power auger and both are normally available at your local tool rental store.
Most homes have an exterior sewer cleanout adjacent to or in front of the house which provides an access point for the snake or auger into the sewer line. If you take the cap off of the exterior cleanout and see a buildup of waste in the pipe, it is a good indication that the problem is in the main sewer line between your home and the street. If that’s the case, use the auger or snake in that direction to loosen any blockage.
An exterior sewer line blockage may be due to normal waste, but there is also a possibility that there could be an issue with tree roots infiltrating the line or possibly even a yard landscaping project damaging the pipe. You may be able to clear the current blockage, but these types of problems will normally allow a recurrence of the backup.
The one sure method for discovering the condition of your exterior sewer line is to have a plumbing contractor camera the pipe to determine if there is any damage or other issues that are causing the blockage. A small camera on a cable is lowered into the pipe and allows every inch of the line to be inspected on an above ground video screen. You then know exactly what damage you may have and where it’s located.
You probably did not realize it, but there are several options when it comes to repairing or replacing drain pipes. All of the options will get the job done but some of the newer technology is less evasive on your property. Listed below is a quick recap of each option.
Drain Relining
Looking for a solution to your drain problems that won’t destroy your landscaping? Drain relining might be the perfect solution for your home. It repairs your pipes from the inside out and it can also be a very cost effective solution. Here is a brief video that explains how it work in more detail – http://www.corleypro.com/drain-service/drain-relining. Pipe relining offers a permanent and fast solution to these problems. Most drains can be relined in a day or less.
Trenchless Drain Pipe Repair
A second high tech solution that won’t destroy your lawn is trenchless pipe repair. With the use of cameras and our trenchless repair equipment, we are able to cut the workload in half by not digging continuous trenches looking for the break. We can then easily slip a new pipe into the ground without tearing up your yard. See how it works http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNMgW3rEaWA&feature=player_embedded.
Traditional Excavation
This is probably the method you are most familiar with and it is still a valid option in many cases. It involves digging up the area around a drain pipe to locate and fix the damage. The biggest drawback is that it does disrupt your landscape.
Drain Jetting
When clogs become too hard to fix with traditional methods, jetting is one of the most advanced options for fixing the drain. Drain jetting is a technique that uses special nozzles to force high pressured water through the pipes in your sewer system. When the water pressure is high enough, it can clear dirt, emulsify oil and soap, break clogs and even cut roots and other growths.
The cost for these different solutions varies and you really need to consult with a drain service professional to determine which option is best for you.
Generally, four destination points in the home are recognized as end uses for hot water: faucets, showers, dishwashers, and washing machines. Now, you do not have to take cold showers, dine on dirty dishes, or wear dirty clothes to reduce your hot water consumption. Less radical measures are available that will be virtually unnoticeable once you apply them.
Faucets and Showers
Simply repairing leaks in faucets and showers can save hot water. A leak of one drip per second can cost $1 per month, yet could be repaired in a few minutes for less than that. And some apparently insignificant steps, when practiced routinely at your household, could have significant results. For example, turning the hot-water faucet off while shaving or brushing your teeth can also reduce water-heating costs. Another option is limiting the amount of time you spend in the shower. Other actions may require a small investment of time and money. Installing low-flow showerheads and faucet aerators can save significant amounts of hot water. Low-flow showerheads can reduce hot water consumption for bathing by 30%, yet still provide a strong, invigorating spray.
Automatic Dishwashers
A relatively common assumption is that washing dishes by hand saves hot water. However, washing dishes by hand several times a day could be more expensive than operating some automatic dishwashers. If properly used, an efficient dishwasher can consume less energy than washing dishes by hand, particularly when you only operate the dishwasher with full loads.
The biggest cost of operating a dishwasher comes from the energy required to heat the water before it ever makes it to the machine. Heating water for an automatic dishwasher can represent about 80% of the energy required to run this appliance. Average dishwashers use 8 to 14 gallons of water for a complete wash cycle and require a water temperature of 140°F for optimum cleaning.
Another feature that reduces hot-water use in dishwashers is the availability of cycle selections. Shorter cycles require less water, thereby reducing the energy cost. The most efficient dishwasher currently on the market can cost half as much to operate as the most inefficient model.
Washing Machines
Like dishwashers, much of the cost—up to 90%—of operating washing machines is associated with the energy needed to heat the water. Unlike dishwashers, washing machines do not require a minimum temperature for optimum cleaning. Either cold or warm water can be used for washing most laundry loads; cold water is always sufficient for rinsing. Make sure you follow the cold-water washing instructions for your particular laundry detergent. Washing only full loads is another good rule of thumb for reducing hot-water consumption in clothes washers.
The next time you pay your utility bill, try one simple calculation. Divide the total amount by seven. The result is the amount you spend to heat your water. (If you receive separate utility bills for gas and electricity, use the gas bill for this calculation if you have a gas water heater; use the electric bill if you have an electric water heater.)
Of course, you may think this cost is a small price to pay for the convenience of a hot shower. But during the course of a year, this cost adds up. And when you consider that 95 million households in this country pay the same percentage, it is easy to see how much money—and energy—is used to heat water.
Several measures can help you decrease water-heating costs in your home. Some specific actions include reducing the amount of hot water used, making your water-heating system more energy efficient, and using off-peak power to heat water.
Various procedures for lowering water temperature in the home exist, depending on the method of heating. Here are some suggestions:
Electric water heaters. Call your local electric company to adjust the thermostat. Some companies offer this service at no-charge. Hot water should not be used for at least two hours prior to setting. To make the adjustment yourself, start by shutting off current to the water heater, then turn off the circuit breaker to the heater or remove the fuse that serves the heater. Most electric water heaters have two thermostats, both of which must be set to a common temperature for proper operation. To reach these thermostats you must remove the upper and lower access panels. Adjust the thermostat following the instructions provided with the appliance. Hold a candy or meat thermometer under the faucet to check water temperature.
Gas water heaters. Because thermostats differ, call your local gas company for instructions. Where precise temperatures are not given, hold a candy or meat thermometer under faucet for most accurate reading first thing in the morning or at least two hours after water use. If reading is too high, adjust thermostat on heater, according to manufacturers instructions, and check again with thermometer.
Never take hot water temperature for granted. Always hand-test before using, especially when bathing children and infants. Leaving a child unsupervised in the bathroom, even if only for a second, could cause serious injuries. Your presence at all times is the best defense against accidents and scaldings to infants and young children.
You may not select the right water heater for your needs and specifications. It’s not as simple as replacing a 30-gallon hot water heater with another 30-gallon model. There are thousands of sizes and options available today. Fuel source, energy efficiency, fast recovery, venting and anticipated demand must all be considered in order to determine the correct model.
Local codes and ordinances may not permit self-installation. Regulations governing water heater installation vary by city. Professional contractors are familiar with the rules and regulations in each city they service.
Installation requires materials and knowledge most homeowners don’t have on hand. Installation involves much more than just attaching a water line. A professional contractor arrives with all the fittings, pipes, parts, tools, venting materials and valves needed to install the job correctly the first time. Most also include removal and disposal of your old water.
A professional contractor may be able to repair your hot water heater instead of replace it. If your hot water heater’s problem is diagnosed as a defective heating element or faulty valve, it can be fixed. A contractor’s experience is the difference between a minor repair and unnecessary investment in a new water heater.
Contractors provide safety and security you can live with. Professional contractors are licensed and bonded to ensure your safety. Most provide warranties covering each installation. The local building authorities inspect all work, as required by code to protect your family’s health and safety.
Drain stoppages cause such a mess and never seem to happen at a convenient time. If your main sewer line stops up you don’t want to wait for service. In fact the sooner the better. Corley offers several options for drain line repair. Our newest service offering is Drain Relining.
Here is a short video that explains how it works.
You can learn more about the different drain services we offer on our website.
The function of your water machine water line is to load the washing machine with the water that is the right temperature. Your washing machine has two water lines; one for cold water and the other for hot water. They are connected to an inlet valve that supplies water into a single hose. Before the hose discharges water into the tub, water first passes through a device that precludes wash water from going back into the washing machine water line. This anti-siphon device has a large aperture that lets air in.
